Start with a quiet, safe indoor space

Bringing a rescue rabbit home is a big moment for you and for them. Many rescue rabbits have had an unsettled start, so a calm, indoor base helps them feel secure. Forget the traditional hutch at the bottom of the garden. In the UK, rabbits do best as house rabbits, living alongside their humans. A pair of rabbits needs a minimum area of about three metres by two metres, with a height of one metre, so they can stretch, hop, and stand up. A puppy pen attached to a safe room, or a fully bunny-proofed room, works well. Choose a quiet corner away from loud appliances, doors, and direct sunlight. The floor should be non-slip; add a cotton rug or vet bed if you have tiles or laminate. Keep the temperature steady, ideally between 15°C and 22°C, and avoid draughts. Remember, a rescue rabbit may arrive nervous, so give them space to watch and settle.

Offer hiding spots and a place to retreat

Rabbits are prey animals. They need to know they can hide whenever they feel worried. Set up at least two hiding places in their area. Cardboard boxes with two holes cut out make brilliant, cheap hides. You can use tunnels, an igloo, a covered cat bed, or a simple wooden box. Put one hide near the food and water, and another in a quiet corner. Never drag a rabbit out of a hiding spot. Instead, sit nearby and let them come to you. A rescue rabbit may take days or weeks to relax. That is normal. Add a soft blanket or fleece to one hide so they have somewhere cosy. Avoid hideaways with only one entrance, as a rabbit can feel trapped. Two exits give them confidence.

Get hay, water and litter right from day one

Hay is the most important part of a rabbit's diet. It should make up around 80 per cent of what they eat. Offer unlimited fresh hay, such as meadow hay or Timothy hay, and check it smells sweet and is not dusty. A hay rack beside the litter tray encourages good habits, because rabbits like to nibble while they toilet. Water should be available. A heavy ceramic bowl is better than a bottle, as it is more natural and easier to clean. Change the water at least twice a day, and wash the bowl daily. Set up a large, low-sided litter tray. Line it with newspaper, add wood pellet litter or paper-based litter, and top with a layer of hay. Avoid clumping cat litter or pine shavings. For food, give a small amount of plain rabbit pellets—about an eggcup per rabbit per day—and a handful of leafy greens. Introduce any new food slowly to avoid upsetting their digestion.

• Hay: unlimited, fresh, and offered in a rack or tray.
• Water: ceramic bowl, changed twice daily.
• Litter: newspaper, wood pellets, and hay on top.
• Pellets: one eggcup per rabbit per day, no mix with coloured pieces.

Bunny-proof cables, skirting boards and houseplants

Rabbits chew. It is natural, and it keeps their teeth healthy. But it can be dangerous. Before your rabbit arrives, look at every cable within reach. Secure them inside plastic trunking, cable tidies, or behind furniture. Pay attention to phone chargers, lamp leads, and television cables. If it can be chewed, assume it will be. Skirting boards, door frames, and wallpaper are also fair game. Block off gaps behind appliances, under sofas, and along walls with puppy pens, mesh panels, or cardboard. Remove toxic houseplants, including lilies, daffodils, foxgloves, and ivy. Provide safe alternatives: apple sticks, willow balls, cardboard tubes, and untreated wicker baskets. Rotate these toys every few days to keep things interesting. A digging box filled with shredded paper or safe soil can redirect their attention. Check your room from a rabbit's height—get down on the floor and look for hazards.

Plan for vet care and gentle introductions

Book a check-up with a rabbit-savvy vet within the first few days. The rescue should tell you what has already been done. Most rescue rabbits are neutered, vaccinated against myxomatosis and Rabbit Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (RHD1 and RHD2), and microchipped. Confirm these details and ask for records. Keep the carrier covered with a light towel during the journey to reduce stress. At home, limit visitors for the first week. Let children watch from a distance and always supervise. If you plan to bond your rabbit with another, follow the rescue's advice and introduce them on neutral ground. Watch for signs of illness: not eating, small or no poos, hiding more than usual, or a hunched posture. These can indicate gut stasis, which is an emergency. Know your nearest out-of-hours vet before you need them.

Settle in, build trust and enjoy your new companion

The first few weeks are about routine and patience. Keep noise low, stick to regular feeding times, and sit on the floor near your rabbit without reaching for them. Let them sniff you. Offer a small piece of herb, like parsley or coriander, from your hand. Do not pick up your rabbit unless you have to. Most rabbits dislike being lifted. If you must, place one hand under the chest and one under the bottom, hold them close to your body, and keep it brief. Provide enrichment: tunnels, a digging box, treat balls, and safe chew toys. Gradually expand their space as they grow more confident. A rescue rabbit needs time, not pressure. With a safe home, good hay, clean water, and a little patience, they will soon reward you with binkies, nose nudges, and quiet companionship. Welcome to the wonderful world of house rabbits.